Sweet, Sour, Bitter, Salty…And Umami: Building Savoury Cocktails by Santanu Chanda

The savoury fifth taste is changing the way we build drinks, says 2024’s World Class India Bartender Of The Year Santanu Chanda.

WHEN WE THINK OF TASTE, we reference sweet, sour, salty and bitter. But there’s a fifth taste that is becoming very popular around the world: umami.

The word “umami” comes from Japan; it means, simply, a deliciously savoury taste. That deep, mouth-filling flavour you notice when eating tomatoes, mushrooms, cheese, miso or soy sauce? That’s umami.

Unlike sweet and sour, which hit the tongue quickly, umami builds slowly and gives food and drinks a richness that feels satisfying and memorable. Chefs have long used umami to bring depth to dishes. However, bartenders too are now turning to it because drinkers want new and unusual flavours. Sweet and sour cocktails have always been around, but savoury cocktails stand out because they surprise the palate.

A Glassful of Umami

The reason umami works so well in cocktails is that it adds complexity, balance and texture. Drinks that include umami ingredients taste fuller and more layered; the savoury notes make the mouth water. For example, tomato water is one of the most common umami mixers. It is slightly salty, lightly citrusy, a little vegetal and tangy, so when you sip it, a lot happens in your mouth at once. The flavour feels alive and makes even a simple cocktail feel sophisticated. Bartenders have long used things like miso honey or mushroom tinctures in cocktails for the same reason: they make for a layered flavour profile that lingers on your palate long after the sip.

Shipping Umami

Umami cocktails are not just for professional bars. You can create them at home with simple kitchen tricks. Pickle brine, for instance, is one of the easiest flavour boosters and almost every household can make it.(Tip: If you mix apple juice, sliced green apple, apple cider vinegar, sugar, mustard seeds, green chilli, salt and coriander stems in a clean jar and leave it to rest for a week, you get a tangy, fruity and savoury brine that can be splashed into any cocktail to give it a twist.) Everyday ingredients like soy sauce, fish sauce or even ketchup may sound unusual in a drink but a tiny drop adds instant depth. A Bloody Mary with a touch of soy becomes richer and more balanced, showing how small amounts of umami can lift a drink.

A Little Bit of Umami Goes A Long Way

Another simple method to try at home is lacto fermentation, which uses only salt and water to bring out savoury flavours in fruits and vegetables.

Lacto apples are a good starting point and very easy to make. Cut three or four apples into pieces and pack them in a jar with water, sea salt, lemon juice, a small stick of cinnamon, and a couple of cloves. Keep the jar sealed at room temperature, away from sunlight, for five to seven days. Once the apples turn tangy, drain them from the liquid. The apples can then be stored in the fridge and used as a garnish for cocktails; meanwhile, the brine can be reused by adding sugar, mustard seeds, cumin, fennel, dill or green chilli to create another style of pickle brine. Both the apple slices and the liquid are full of savoury character and bring a creative twist to drinks you mix.

Incorporating umami in cocktails does not have to be complicated. A splash of pickle brine in a vodka soda, a slice of lacto apple in a whisky highball, a spoon of tomato water in a margarita, or a little miso honey stirred into a rum cocktail can all make your drink more distinctive. These are very small steps but the change in taste is pronounced.

U-mami-mia!

People love umami drinks because they are different, memorable and versatile; they feel like something new without being too difficult to understand. The savoury character surprises the drinker and makes them curious, which is why umami cocktails are becoming more and more common in bars across the world.

Umami is not a passing fad but a natural flavour that has always existed in food and is now finding its way into drinks. It adds depth, freshness and a sense of discovery to cocktails.

From tomato water to pickle brine, from soy sauce to lacto apples, you can bring umami into your own kitchen and experiment with it in very simple ways. The next time you make a drink, remember that sweet, sour, salty and bitter are not the only tastes available in your repertoire. Add a touch of umami, the hidden fifth taste, and watch how it transforms your cocktail into something unique.

Two Recipes To Try

Umamilicious

A bold, modern cocktail that layers earthy umami notes with refreshing vegetal brightness. Perfectly balancing tradition and innovation.

Ingredients

• 50 ml Johnnie Walker Black Label

• 2 dashes Mushroom Tincture

• Beetroot & Tomato Water Soda (to top)

• 5 ml Agave Syrup

• A touch of Malic Acid (for balance)

Method

• Build Johnnie Walker Black Label, mushroom tincture, agave syrup, and malic acid in a chilled highball glass.

• Add ice and stir gently to integrate flavours.

• Top with beetroot and tomato water soda.

• Give a light stir for balance.

Garnish

- A thin beetroot crisp

Ten On Tan Fizz

A unique Umami highball that unites creamy Parmesan richness with bright basil and the tang of pickle brine. Topped with soda for effervescence.

Ingredients

• 50 ml Tanqueray London Dry Gin, Parmesan Fat-Washed

• 15 ml Basil Saccharum

• 10 ml Pickle Brine

• Soda (to top)

Method

• Add the Parmesan fat-washed Tanqueray London Dry Gin, basil saccharum, and pickle brine in a chilled highball glass.

• Add ice and stir gently to combine.

• Top with soda.

• Give a light stir to balance flavours.

Glassware

- Highball

Garnish

- Basil Jelly